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Floor sanding: what to expect, step by step
Sanding takes the old finish and a thin layer of timber off a wooden floor, removing scratches, stains and grey, worn patches, and then a new lacquer or oil goes on to protect it. Solid wood floors can be sanded many times. Engineered wood can be sanded if its real wood top layer is thick enough. Laminate and vinyl cannot be sanded at all.
Can my floor be sanded?
| Floor | Can it be sanded? | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Solid wood boards or parquet | Yes, many times | Loose boards, nails standing proud, gaps |
| Engineered wood | Sometimes | The thickness of the real wood top layer |
| Original pine floorboards | Usually | Board thickness after earlier sanding, gaps between boards |
| Laminate | No | It is a printed image on a fibreboard core |
| Vinyl (LVT or SPC) | No | It is a printed image under a wear layer |
Can it be sanded?
- Solid wood boards or parquet
- Yes, many times
- Engineered wood
- Sometimes
- Original pine floorboards
- Usually
- Laminate
- No
- Vinyl (LVT or SPC)
- No
What to check
- Solid wood boards or parquet
- Loose boards, nails standing proud, gaps
- Engineered wood
- The thickness of the real wood top layer
- Original pine floorboards
- Board thickness after earlier sanding, gaps between boards
- Laminate
- It is a printed image on a fibreboard core
- Vinyl (LVT or SPC)
- It is a printed image under a wear layer
If you are not sure what your floor is, lift a floor vent or look at the edge of a board at a doorway or under a threshold strip. A real wood layer shows as solid timber grain through its thickness.
How a floor is sanded
- Preparation. The room is emptied, nails are punched below the surface, and loose boards are fixed.
- Coarse sanding. A drum or belt sander takes off the old finish and levels the boards.
- Edges and corners. An edging sander works up to the skirting, and corners are finished by hand.
- Repairs and gaps. Damaged boards are replaced, and gaps can be filled so the floor is draught-free.
- Finer sanding. Progressively finer grits leave the surface smooth and ready for the finish.
- Finish. Coats of lacquer or oil go on, with light sanding between coats as the product needs.
Modern sanders collect most of the dust into a bag or extraction unit, which keeps the mess down, but fine dust still settles, so cupboards and doors nearby are best kept closed.
Lacquer or oil?
Lacquer forms a hard, clear layer on top of the wood. It is the tougher choice for busy halls, kitchens and homes with pets, and comes in matt, satin and gloss.
Oil soaks into the wood and hardens inside it, giving a more natural, low-sheen look. Worn patches can be re-oiled locally without sanding the whole floor, but oiled floors need topping up from time to time.
A stain can go on before either finish to change the colour of the floor, for example to darken pine or to match new boards to old ones.
How long does it take?
The time depends on the size of the room, the condition of the boards, how many repairs are needed and the drying time of the finish chosen. Each coat has to dry before the next goes on, and the finish keeps hardening for some days after it is dry to the touch, so the room is best treated gently and rugs left off for a while. Your quote sets out the plan for your floor.
How to get ready
- Empty the room, including curtains that reach the floor.
- Tell us about underfloor heating, pipes or cables under the boards.
- Keep pets and children out of the room until the finish has dried.
- Plan where you will put the furniture and how you will get around the house while the room is out of use.
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